If you have ever held a piece of authentic Lucknowi Chikankari, you likely noticed a delicate, ethereal quality that sets it apart from other embroideries. It doesn’t just sit on the fabric; it seems to be part of it.
This mesmerizing effect is largely due to one specific stitch: Bakhiya.
Often called "Shadow Work," Bakhiya is the heartbeat of Chikankari. It is the technique that gives this craft its ghostly, romantic elegance. In this post, we’ll peel back the layers of this intricate stitch to understand how it transforms simple cloth into a masterpiece.
What is Bakhiya?
In the vast vocabulary of Chikankari (which includes over 30 types of stitches), Bakhiya is the technique used to fill floral motifs and paisleys.
Unlike surface embroidery where the thread sits proudly on top, Bakhiya plays a game of light and opacity. The magic lies in the tension between the thread and the transparency of the fabric.
The Two Faces of Bakhiya
There are actually two ways this stitch is performed, each creating a distinct visual effect:
1. Ulta Bakhiya (The Shadow)
This is the most famous and distinctive version.
- The Technique: The artisan stitches on the wrong side (reverse) of the fabric using a herringbone-style stitch.
- The Effect: On the front side (right side), you don’t see the heavy thread crossing over. Instead, you see a soft, opaque "shadow" of the thread underneath, outlined by tiny, neat running stitches.
- Why it’s special: It creates a "double-shade" effect. The fabric color serves as the light tone, and the thread underneath creates a deeper, richer tone of the same color.
2. Seedha Bakhiya (The Satin)
- The Technique: This is stitched on the right side (front) of the fabric.
- The Effect: It resembles a flat satin stitch. It fills the motif with threads lying side-by-side on the surface, creating a smooth, textured look.
- Why it’s special: It is often used to add definition or to contrast with the softer Ulta Bakhiya, giving the garment a mix of textures.
The Fabric Connection
You cannot discuss Bakhiya without discussing fabric. Because Ulta Bakhiya relies on transparency to show the "shadow" underneath, it performs best on sheer, lightweight textiles.
- Muslin (Mulmul): The traditional choice. It offers a vintage, matte finish that absorbs dye beautifully.
- Georgette & Chiffon: Popular in modern fashion for their flowy drape. The sheer nature of these fabrics makes the Bakhiya shadow pop incredibly well.
- Organza: A stiffer fabric that provides a glass-like transparency, making the embroidery look like it is floating.
Note: If you see "Chikankari" on thick, opaque cotton or linen where you can't see the shadow effect, it likely utilizes other stitches (like Phanda or Tepchi) rather than the classic Ulta Bakhiya.
Mastering the Look: Motifs and Styling
Bakhiya is rarely used alone. It is the "filler," but it needs an "outline."
The Outline: Usually done with Tepchi (a simple running stitch) or Pechni (a built-up running stitch) to define the shape of the flower or paisley.
The Center: The centers of flowers are often punctuated with Phanda (millet-shaped knots) or Murri (rice-shaped knots) to add a 3D texture against the flat Bakhiya.
Modern Styling
While traditional Bakhiya was white-on-white (Biel work), modern fashion has embraced color.
Pastels: Light pinks, powder blues, and mint greens are the gold standard. The white thread of the Bakhiya creates a soft, cloud-like contrast against these hues.
Tone-on-Tone: Using thread the same color as the fabric creates a sophisticated, texture-heavy look that is perfect for office wear or formal events.
Conclusion
Bakhiya is more than just a stitch; it is an optical illusion created by the skilled hands of artisans in Lucknow. It reminds us that sometimes, true beauty isn't about what is shouted from the rooftops, but what is quietly shadowed underneath.
The next time you wear a Chikankari kurti, flip it inside out. If you see a chaotic yet rhythmic crisscross of threads on the back, you’ll know you are wearing a piece of genuine art—a labor of love known as Bakhiya.